A New Sparkle: Discovering the World of Tourmalines
It started with a ring—delicate, unusually colorful, and tucked into a box of old costume jewelry I’d picked up at an estate sale on a whim. I was drawn to it immediately. At first glance, I assumed it was just glass—its color shifted from a rosy pink to a soft pink depending on the light. But something about it felt… different.
After using my trusty presidium tester , my GIA knowledge, and a quick visit to my local gemologist, I learned it was a pink tourmaline.
That’s when I remembered: years ago, when I was a wide-eyed and enthusiastic gem specialist at Bailey Banks & Biddle, one of the senior jewelers had been absolutely enamored with tourmalines. He’d go on these business trips to Thailand—trips that seemed half gemstone scouting, half misadventure. He’d return with stunning stones and even more vivid stories, including one about a tiny Speedo, a local beach, and questionable fashion choices best left to the imagination. Despite the theatrics, his passion for tourmalines was genuine and contagious. He once described them as “the most underrated gem,” and I never forgot that.
Tourmalines are indeed some of the most colorful and versatile gemstones out there. The name comes from the Sinhalese word turmali, meaning “mixed gems”—fitting for a stone that appears in almost every color of the rainbow. Some are even bi-colored or tri-colored, like the watermelon variety that I know and love.
Historically, tourmalines were often mistaken for other gems—green ones for emeralds, red for rubies. In fact, some of the “rubies” in the Russian crown jewels turned out to be tourmalines. It wasn’t until the 18th century that they were officially recognized as a distinct mineral group. Since then, they’ve become especially beloved in vintage jewelry, particularly in mid-century and Art Deco pieces where bold colors shone.
I’ve come across tourmaline rings set in chunky 1970s gold, delicate Edwardian brooches with pastel stones, and even a minimalist Scandinavian pendant featuring a single deep-blue stone. No matter the setting, the tourmaline always steals the show.
These days, I keep an eye out for them in all my vintage hunts. I’ve learned to recognize their glassy luster and unique hues. Each one feels a bit like finding a secret treasure—an underappreciated gem with a story waiting to be told. I also love the natural inclusions in the stones, like little maps to their gem souls.
Tourmalines have taught me to look twice at the pieces I used to pass over. Sometimes the most dazzling stones are the ones we don’t recognize at first—but someone in a tiny Speedo might have known better all along. Shoutout to Eric the jeweler who always kept the conversations interesting.
